When you think of the Ionian Sea, places like Kefalonia, Ithaki, Lefkada or Corfu most likely come to mind. But tucked into a deep natural bay lies Astakos —a small harbor town with a big story to tell. This quaint little fishing town is often overlooked as just a ferry port en route to the islands, but Astakos is a destination in its own right, offering a rich history and a slower rhythm of Greek life. I’ve recently been invited to explore this lesser-known town, and I’d like to share my experience with you.
Where Is Astakos?
Astakos is situated on the western coast of mainland Greece, in the region of Aetolia-Acarnania, facing the Ionian Sea. It’s about an hour’s drive from Messolonghi.
The name Astakos in Greek means “lobster,” however, its origins extend deeper than seafood. According to local tradition, the town was named after King Astakos, a figure of ancient Aetolia. He is said to have ruled this part of western Greece, lending his name to the settlement that grew by the sea.
There’s also a more playful explanation: if you look at Astakos from above, the shape of its harbor resembles the body of a lobster, complete with narrow curves and a wide opening toward the Ionian. Another version says that once upon a time, the sea here was teeming with lobsters. In fact, there’s a species of noble crayfish found in Greek waters called Astacus astacus—a delicious local specialty you can still taste today in the tavernas by the harbor.
Staying in Astakos: Giannis Village Resort
We stayed at Giannis Village Resort, perched on the hillside just 200 meters from the beach. This 4-star hotel is surrounded by lush greenery and offers breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea and the nearby Echinades Islands. It’s the perfect place to connect with nature. In the morning, I was greeted by the sounds of a flock of sheep, roaming around just a little further off from the pool area. And in the evening, if you listen carefully, you will hear the bray of a donkey—their local pet.
The resort features spacious apartments with fully equipped kitchens, cozy verandas, two swimming pools, and fitness facilities. And the best part is the friendly hosts who make this resort a perfect base for exploring both Astakos and nearby destinations, such as Lefkada and Preveza. When the weather turns cool, the in-room fireplace adds a cozy touch to your stay.
A Walk Through the Harbor
The heart of Astakos is its harbor, lined with tavernas and cafés where fishing boats rest quietly after a morning at sea. It’s here that I tasted one of the town’s specialties—linguine with crayfish. Paired with ouzo and simple meze, dining by the harbor is the quintessential Greek seaside experience.
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At the far end of the harbor, right across from Stratos Hotel, you’ll also find the town beach—a convenient spot for a refreshing swim steps away from the cafés and waterfront promenade.
Sailing to the Echinades Islands
One of the highlights of our trip was setting sail with local fisherman Captain George Aleuras to the Echinades Islands. These uninhabited islets may look peaceful today, but history tells a different story.
In 322 BC, the Battle of the Echinades was fought here during the Lamian War, when Athens and the Aetolian League challenged Macedonian rule after Alexander the Great’s death. Under the command of Cleitus the White, the Macedonian fleet defeated the Athenians, marking the decline of Athens as a naval power.
Centuries later, in 1571, these waters were the site of the famous Battle of Lepanto. The Holy League—Spain, Venice, Genoa, and the Papal States—faced off against the Ottomans in one of the most significant naval battles of all time. Though outnumbered, the Christian fleet secured a decisive victory, ending Ottoman dominance in the western Mediterranean. Among those who fought was Spanish writer Miguel de Cervantes, who lost the use of his left hand in the battle.
Today, the islands are calm and wild. And on the nearby uninhabited Atokos, you can even swim alongside wild pigs. You can arrange this unique adventure through George.
What Fishing Means to Astakos
Captain George, who spent a decade working in Iceland before returning to his homeland, spoke with us about the realities of life at sea. He explained how he often moves between the Ionian islands to find the best market for his catch, yet this year his haul is down by more than 50%—a decline he attributes to climate change and shifting fish populations.
He showed us photos of enormous tuna caught in these very waters—some weighing over 400 kilos and longer than a man is tall. Landing a fish of that size is no easy task; it can take hours of patience and skill, and carries real risks. He told us that catching a fish of this size should never be done alone. George even demonstrated the specialized hooks he uses for such catches, giving us a glimpse into the demanding craft of a fisherman.
We also met Mr. Spyros Kounadis, head of the local fishing association, and his wife Eirini, who joined us briefly on the boat. They shared more about the difficulties fishermen face today, including a substantial decrease in catches and competition from fish farms. Yet despite the challenges, they continue to support initiatives that keep Astakos’ fishing traditions alive—most notably through the development of fishing tourism.
Visitors can now join George on authentic excursions—learning how to fish, exploring the islands, and even cooking and enjoying your catch right on the boat. It really doesn’t get fresher or more real than that. To book your experience, contact George on +30 694 773 8170 or through his Facebook Page here.
Aristocratic Past: Neoclassical Homes and Oak Wealth
Though Astakos is a small fishing town, we learnt that it once enjoyed a more cosmopolitan life. We joined Vasilis Zagkotas, a school teacher and historian, on a guided walk around town. Vasilis is originally from Serres, a city in northern Greece, but he chose to settle in Astakos because of its laid-back, coastal lifestyle.
Astakos has several abandoned yet elegant Neoclassical homes, which were built between 1840 and 1930. There are two that particularly stand out and are found near the waterfront. One still boasts a grand wrought-iron gate, while another has a vast orchard in front.
Astakos was formally organized with its town hall in 1840 and its first school in 1842. The town’s prosperity came from two primary resources:
- Oak – prized for its timber and tannin-rich bark used for dye.
- Limestone – quarried here and used in the construction of important buildings across Greece, including the famous Hotel Grande Bretagne in Athens.
Among the notable houses is the birthplace of Pantelis Karasevdas, Olympic gold medalist in the 200-meter rifle at the very first modern Olympic Games in Athens, 1896. His home is located near the main square, and a plaque with his name is displayed there. You will also come across his bust, proudly standing in the town square.
Local Businesses: Lemonofarma and Astakos Olives
Astakos is also home to small but inspiring local businesses, which we had the opportunity to visit during our stay in Astakos.
Lemonofarma
Run by Kostas Lichnos and Chrysa Babouri, Lemonofarma turns the region’s citrus bounty into pure, additive-free lemonade. Sold as a concentrate, it’s both eco-friendly and refreshing. And in true Astakos spirit, the logo is—of course—a lobster.
This family business, situated in the heart of Astakos, may be only a few years old, but its secret family recipe has already become a local success. You can savor their fresh lemonade in many of the town’s cafés and shops, often served in specially designed jar-style glasses that make the experience even more memorable.
Astakos Olives
We also visited Astakos Olives, a family-owned business run by Lazaros Kalantzis, his wife, and daughter, along with a few other dedicated team members. I greatly enjoyed this visit because the passion of this family for producing quality products is evident from the moment you set foot on their premises.
Their facility produces premium olives, olives with herbs, olive paste, and cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil. What sets them apart is quality: only the best olives are used, and their state-of-the-art cold press preserves maximum flavor, nutrients, and aroma. They even share their equipment with local farmers, helping the whole community enjoy high-quality oil.
There’s a small shop on site where visitors can purchase products directly from the factory—perfect souvenirs to bring a taste of Astakos home.
Where to Eat in Astakos
No trip to Astakos would be complete without enjoying its seaside tavernas, where the day’s catch is served fresh and simple. Here are a few spots worth trying:
Blue Fish – Located right on the harbor, this taverna is a favorite for seafood lovers. It was here that I enjoyed a plate of linguine with crayfish. Paired with a glass of ouzo or chilled white wine, it’s a must-try.
Takis The Kalofagas – A traditional spot on the harbor where you’ll find hearty portions and authentic local flavors. From grilled fish to classic Greek appetizers, it’s the kind of place where locals gather, and the hospitality feels like home. This is where we tried the small cod, caught by no other than Captain George himself.
Maestros – Another excellent choice by the sea, Maestros serves a wide range of seafood dishes, meat dishes, meze, and refreshing salads. It’s ideal for a relaxed dinner.
Connection with the Ionian Islands
Astakos also connects to the Ionian Islands. From the port, the Ionian Pelagos ferry runs regular routes to Kefalonia (Sami), with a duration of 2 hours 20 minutes, and Ithaki Pisaetos (3 hours 15 minutes), making it easy to combine a stay in Astakos with an island-hopping adventure. You can check availability and buy your tickets online here.
Why Visit Astakos?
Astakos may not be on every traveler’s radar, but that’s exactly what makes it special. With its dramatic bay, authentic fishing culture, aristocratic history, and warm people, this town is far more than a ferry stop.
Add Astakos Greece to your itinerary—it pairs beautifully with a visit to Nafpaktos, Messolonghi, and the Ionian Islands.
I was invited to visit Astakos, along with Travel Bloggers Greece, by BioEffect Greece. As always, all opinions expressed are my own.
Watch the whole experience on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW6LYB4fU4g
